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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.